Guide to Akashi: a Kawaii Shrine and a Fishy Toilet

Akashi City in Japan’s Hyogo Prefecture is, to me at least, nothing less than a poetic mix of Japan’s classic historical allure and modern jaw-dropping quirks. Nestled between the UNESCO-crowned Himeji Castle and cosmopolitan port city Kobe, Akashi is still very much off the radar for most tourists. Hopefully this little guide will change that.

The closest main city to Akashi is actually its neighbor, Kobe. From Sanyo-Sannomiya Station in downtown Kobe, take the San-yo Electric Railway to Sanyo-Akashi Station in downtown Akashi. Limited Express options running on the San-yo Electric Railway take approximately 35 minutes one way.

Since the San-yo Electric Railway is NOT a JR train, the JR Pass cannot be used.

What I did in Akashi

Uontana Shopping Street

Exiting south of San-yo-Akashi Station lands visitors just outside of Uontana, a sprawling indoor shopping street with over 200 meters of mom-and-pop restaurants. Since Akashi is a seaside town, it’s no surprise that most of these local hangouts boast a purely seafood menu.

The popular meal of choice here is called Akashiyaki, a local spin on the nationwide staple takoyaki octopus balls. Akashiyaki, like takoyaki, are dumplings filled with batter and octopus bits. The savory sauce and mayonnaise often drizzled atop takoyaki are swicthed out for dashi, a type of mild dipping sauce.

Besides this beloved comfort food, don’t be surprised if local grandmas and grandpas call out and invite you to try a free sample of their products – I was invited to try some squid for free!

Location: 1-chome-1-16 Honmachi, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0892

Akashi Castle Ruins

On the other side of Sanyo-Akashi Station are the Akashi Castle Ruins, frequented by locals especially during cherry blossom season, but a scenic example of feudal Japanese architecture no matter the season. While nearly all of the main buildings were destroyed during Japan’s transition to Western-style government in the 1800s, two original turret towers remain. During its heyday, Akashi Castle was tasked with acting as a backup for regional defense in case the larger nearby Himeji Castle ever fell to ruin – irony at its finest, considering Himeji Castle still stands whole today.

Location: 1-27 Akashikoen, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0847

Hipopo Papa

You often hear that a restaurant “isn’t just about the food, it’s about the experience.” I’m here to tell you that at Hipopo Papa, it’s actually true – and that the experience is in the toilet. Hipopo Papa is a brief walk through the beachside neighborhood near Hayashisakimatsuekaigan Station (I know, it’s a mouthful just like the delicious food at Hipopo Papa). While the view of the Setouchi Sea from my seat was as lovely as my pasta gratin was tasty, the restroom was unlike anything I had ever seen. I’ll just say some time on the toilet here gives a whole new meaning to “stage fright” and leave it at that.

Location: 60 Matsue, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0036

Mikuriya Shrine

7 minutes away from Higashi-Futami Station and hidden amongst suburban homes, Mikuriya Shrine is a unique pilgrimage destination for Hello Kitty and Sanrio fans steadily gaining traction on social media. While this residential shrine has historically been patronized by local seamen, lovers of kawaii from near and far have also become regulars, purchasing “o-mamori” protection amulets decorated with My Melody, Kuromi, Hello Kitty, Keroppi, and other ambassadors of cute.

It’s recommended to check Mikuriya Shrine’s instagram @mikuriya_shrine for the latest inventory updates.

Location: Higashifutami-1323 Futamicho, Akashi, Hyogo 674-0092

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