A mighty samurai stronghold during the 1600s, Tsuyama teems with remnants of powerful feudal lords and political prowess. Nestled among the mountains far into Okayama Prefecture’s interior, one might assume Tsuyama strictly offers samurai sightseeing. On the contrary, a multi-cultural tapestry continues to weave its way alongside Tsuyama’s samurai heritage thanks to the historic rise of local Western scholars. Rich folklore, traditional bathing culture, and more also dot Tsuyama’s samurai-trodden streets.
How to Get to Tsuyama
Travelers along the Sanyo Shinkansen train route will have a relatively smooth ride to Tsuyama City. First, take a Shinkansen or local train to Okayama Station. Tsuyama Station is 1.5 hours away from Okayama Station via the Tsuyama Line. I recommend spending one night in Tsuyama City, but it is possible to do a day trip from Okayama City.
What to do in Tsuyama
Tsuyama Castle Ruins
One of Japan’s top 100 castles, Tsuyama Castle was built in the 1440s by the Yamana Clan, a powerful ruling family whose power was at its peak in the 1300s and 1400s. While the original castle unfortunately fell by order of the newly westernized government during the 1870s, the Tsuyama Castle Ruins still commands attention with its magnificent castle walls standing the test of time, beautifully accented by cherry blossom trees in April.
Location: 135 Sange, Tsuyama, Okayama 708-0022
Soak up Local Kappa Folklore
Kappa are a type of water yokai (or “spirit”) in Japanese folklore, a common character in tales throughout Japan told to teach children the dangers of water. Kappa are oftentimes mischievous creatures, pulling people into water and tricking passersby into falling and drowning. Despite their sinister antics, Kappa have found their place in modern Tsuyama society as a quirky mascot rather than fearsome trickster. Kakuzan Street in downtown Tsuyama is lined with Kappa statues, and memorabilia.
Location: Sendōmachi, Tsuyama, Okayama 708-0034
Oranda-do
Oranda-do, named after the Japanese word for “Holland,” is a quaint cafe located in Tsuyama’s Important Traditional Building Group Preservation Area. Just beside the Tsuyama Archives of Western Learning, it makes perfect sense that Oranda-do’s sweet of choice is the Dutch waffle. During the Edo period (1603–1868) the Dutch were the only Westerners allowed limited contact with Japan, and Tsuyama’s feudal lord, despite Japan’s policy regarding foreigners, actively promoted rangaku, or “Dutch studies.” Nowadays, Tsuyama’s Dutch medical and language textbooks have been traded for delicious waffles and tea.
Location: 5 Nishishinmachi, Tsuyama, Okayama 708-0833
Cafe Fukujuyu
Beloved by locals and saved from destruction, what is now Cafe Fukujuyu was once a popping sento, or “public bath” used by the neighborhood. After years of closure, the remains of the sento was almost turned into a parking lot before it was saved by a local youth and renovated into a hip cafe. Sit in the retro bathtubs sans the water and sip on some soda for a quick rest.
Location: 5 Katsumadamachi, Tsuyama, Okayama 708-0835
Josai Romance Hall
Tsuyama’s western influence echoes throughout Josai Romance Hall, built in 1917 with a Taisho-era architecture style. Originally built just west of Tsuyama Castle to serve as a hospital, Josai Romance Hall’s nostalgic interior now serves visitors and locals as a cafe and gallery space, providing absolutely fantastic examples of 20th century design cloaked in a distinctly Japanese palette.
Location: 138 Eimachi, Sakaiminato, Tottori 684-0006
Tsuyama Manabi Railway Museum
A gem for train enthusiasts, the Tsuyama Manabi Railway Museum is a testament to the town’s rapid industrialization after centuries of samurai heritage. The museum is built around the former Tsuyama Depot roundhouse, a fan-shaped locomotive shed from 1936. An incredible collection of historic trains and steam engines are housed in the roundhouse for up-close viewing. Kid-friendly interactive exhibits make for a great family-friendly outing as well.
Location: Otani, Tsuyama, Okayama 708-0882
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